Hi everyone, today I’m sharing how we made our DIY modern farmhouse dining table with the most basic tools.
This was really easy to make and could easily be a 2 day project.
WHAT NOT TO DO WHEN BUILDING A TABLE!
We had originally planned on making the table from raw wood, however that’s where the downside to the DIY comes into play. We had started this DIY table in the summertime and because time got the best of us we weren’t able to finish it in time before Christmas so, we decided to store it in the shop. Granted the wood wasn’t kiln dried so while it was stored in the shop it slowly warped and was eventually unusable. LIKE AT ALL! I share the deets in the video. Personally I really wanted a live edge table but, I feel if you don’t buy the proper raw wood it’s not even worth the hassle. Sadly we payed around $200 for the raw wood and weren’t able to use it for the table. Tony does have plans to use it for some benches and I’m thinking it might just work for a smaller project. That said lesson learned we will not be attempting to make a DIY table from raw wood again.
After all the hassel with the raw wood we decided to make a quick trip to home depot and get some basic builder grade wood there.
- 2 pieces of 4″x6″ by 8 feet
- 4 pieces of 2″x10″ by 8 feet
- 2 piece of 2″ x 6″ by 8 feet
- 2 pieces of 2″x4″ by 8 feet
- wood glue
- simply white minwax stain
- fruit wood minwax stain
- early american minwax stain
- polycrylic gloss clear finish
- polycrylic minwax flat matte finish
- paper towels
- 24 – 4.5″ screws (1/4″ inches in thicnkess)
- 16 – 2.5″ screws ( 1/4 inches in thickness)
- circular saw
- miter saw (to cut 2″x6″)
- drill bit extension
- kreg jig
- countersink drill bit + regular drill bit
The wood cost us around $130. We used some recycled wood we had at home too. The top coat and stain cost an additional about $60. So in total this table cost us under $200. What a great deal!
Plans for the table
Step 1: Prepping the wood!
I first started off by laying out the 2″x 10″ and one 2″x6″ in the center. I than marked where I would be making my slanted holes. Make sure to mark the wood pieces by numbers and a line across so they don’t get misplaced if you have to move them.
You’ll need the piece of wood underneath so the clamp doesn’t leave marks on your table.
Here’s what the kreg jig looks in action (photo below).
We used regular 2.5″ screws to secure all the pieces of wood together. You’ll need an extension for this. It makes it so much easier to screw the screws in.
Sizing the table!
We marked and cut the table down to 57″ inches in length. We used our circular saw to cut it down to size.
Securing the edges of the table!
We than made some slanted holes on the edges of the table using the kreg jig and used some wood glue and screws to attach some 2″x6″ pieces of wood on the edges.
We actually realized once securing the 2″x6″ with screws that the slanted holes held up better if they were made on the 2″x6″. So instead of attaching the screws from the table into the 2″x6″ we made holes in the 2″x6″ and attached screws in through it into the table. It was more durable this way.
Here’s what the 2″x6″s looked like on both ends.
Making the legs:
To make the legs we started off by cutting 4 pieces of 2″x6″ measuring at 25″ inches in length. This will make up for the pillars on the legs.
We also cut 4 pieces of 2″x4″s that went on both sides of the pillars. The 2″x4″s measured 32″ inches in length.
Securing the legs!
Those 4″x6″s are pretty heavy we decided to use long 4.5″ screws to secure the 2×4’s to them. Honestly the bottom side of the legs probably didn’t need screws this long. You can get away with using something smaller if you’d like.
To secure the screws into the wood I pre-drilled the holes and used a counter sink drill bit to help counter sink the screws. I share more about the tools I used in the video.
The screws should settle in nicely and be flush with the surface.
Securing the legs to the table!
To secure the legs to the table we used some 2.5″ screws. They were 1/4″ in thickness which made the legs super durable.
We did plan on adding cross beams between the legs but, after securing the legs they were so durable we decided not to add the beams in the middle. If you’re concerned about the legs not holding up without the cross bars you can test try at least one screw on a sample piece of wood. We were pretty surprised by how strong they were.
I also love how simple the table looked this way without the cross beams.
Staining Douglas Fir!
When it comes to staining douglas fir it’s isn’t the easiest thing to stain. If you remember our previous DIY table it was also made douglus fir and I made the mistake of simple clear finishing it without staining it only to find out it turned super orange and red. Douglas fir has a lot of red and orange hues that seam to pop through almost any stain ( photo below is of our old table)
Here’s what it looks like raw (photo below)
I’ve tested a handful of different methods to try and tone down the reds. Just experimented really.. I couldn’t find any techniques online that offered clear instructions. I really wanted to get a pretty tan color on the wood. Eventually, I ended up going with a three step stain. It was something I came across by total accident. This three step method was the best for toning down the reds and oranges.
For my stain I went with a simply white stain first. The white stain acts as a toner to fade all the yellows and oranges.
I simply brushed on the white stain and wiped it off after about 5 minutes. Be sure to wipe off the stain before it dries.
Applying stain #2
After wiping the white stain I let it settle into the wood for a few hours. Do not leave it overnight or longer than a few hours. Next I was ready to apply the fruitwood stain. The fruitwood stain has a greenish undertone. This stain works perfect to tone down all the reds in the wood. In fact it literally turns all the red areas a pretty gray hue.
I also applied and wiped it off pretty much right away. I only let it set on the table for about 5 minutes. Don’t not allow it to start drying. You want to wipe it off while it’s still wet.
For the last stain I went with early american minwax. This was a much darker stain and it almost seems to dark once applied. Keep in mind that the the white and fruitwood stain underneath won’t allow it to stain to dark. You do not need to wait to long after you apply the fruitwood in order to apply the early american stain. I only waited about 1 hour. Once you apply the early american wipe it off immediately. This should be the last step in staining. If you wish to achieve a darker color you can let the stain settle in overnight and apply another coat of early American wiping it off right away as well. That’s what I did but, in all honestly I wish I haven’t done it so dark. Wood stain tends to darken over time. Something to keep in mind. After letting the stain sit for about a week I noticed it got a lot darker. I still like it though. It still looks very beautiful 😀
Here’s how the table looks. I’m so in love with how simple it looks. I think it’ll look really good against the banquet setting space we plan to make. I was thinking black leather seating wood look so pretty against this warm color.
I love how the grain in the wood looks. All the reds are way toned down. LOVE LOVE LOVE IT! still can’t believe it’s just Douglas fir.
That’s it! I hope you like this DIY table and it inspires you to make one of your own. I’ll see you all next time. I’m hoping to start on the banquette setting next week 😀 Another DIY I can’t wait to share with you! Than I’ll share some updated photos of the table with the new seating.