Resin Art Pour
So this was probably the most fun I’ve ever had making a piece of art work! Not to mention it’s also probably my quickest art piece as well. I’ve had this DIY on my to-do list for so long and I’m so happy to have teamed up with hobby lobby to bring you this tutorial. Honestly I was a bit intimated by resin jumping into this DIY. I’ve watched so many youtube videos and it all seemed a bit overwhelming. I had so many unanswered questions and did so much research before starting but, truth be told it’s more fun than scary! Once you see those colors blend and do their thing you’ll be wanting to make another one immediately!
I think the time constraint was what really freaked me out at first. I usually like to take my time when creating artwork. After reviewing a few options for my resin I found a resin that has a 45 min work time which isn’t bad at all. Honestly I think if I had more work time I’d be over saturating my canvas with too much color. I’m glad the time constraint helps me keep it simple.
If you’re like I was jumping into resin pour.., freaked out with a zillion questions! Than I hope to help you feel more comfortable about the subject of fluid resin art. 🙂
Before we jump into this tutorial here’s the video version if you love videos. 🙂
(by the way if you plan on working with resin I would recommend reading the rest of the blog post there are a lot of tips and tricks you don’t want to miss)
Picking your Resin – This could make or break your artwork!
Your resin could make or break your project. If you aren’t really familiar with resin here are some basics.
You’ll usually have a liquid hardener and the liquid resin. Your resin will not start hardening until you add your hardener. There are a lot of different types of resin for different projects. Jewelry resin, table resin, art resin, casting resin etc..
I love reading reviews on everything I buy and when it comes to resin I’d say I’ve read my fair share of reviews to know that casting resin (its’ cheaper) would not work for my art pour. Casting resin (photo below) is made for creating jewelry and other knick knacks. It sets a lot quicker than Art Resin and will not give you enough time to create your artwork. Even though casting resin might say it has a working time of 30 min (that’s what I read on the label) in most cases it’ll start setting in as little as 10 minutes (from the reviews I’ve read) So with all that in mind I knew I didn’t want to risk buying the casting resin if other folks have tried it and mentioned it sets so quick. 10 minutes isn’t even enough to mix your paints. You need to mix your resin for at last 3 minutes to start off with so it sets right.
Here’s a photo below showing the resin I went with. (art resin)
What you’ll need :
- resin (here’s where I got mine)
- ice cream sticks
- heat gun (I got mine at hobby lobby for $13 with their 40%off coupon –> you can get the coupon here)
- acrylic paint (here’s where I got my paint)
- gold pigment or spray paint or in my case I used some little model car enamel paints
- lots of gloves
- 2 measuring cups
- A canvas or piece of wood. (if you plan on adding rocks or crystals I would probably us wood)
- plastic cups
- broken crystals (or glass pebbles)
- paper towels
- plastic table cloth
Before we begin here are the questions I had jumping into this DIY.
What can I add to resin?
So the nice thing about working with resin is that there is a a wide range of mediums that could be added to it. From what I’ve learned you can use acrylic paints, spray paint, enamel paint, pigments, glitter, inks… I’m not sure if you can add alcohol inks but if I ever give it a try I’ll let you know. When picking your acrylic paint make sure they are more on the pigmented side. The more pigmented the better. It means you won’t need to add a lot of paint to your resin to get your desired color. Also keep in mind the more paint you add the faster some resins will set. I’ve learned this from experience.
How much paint can I add to my resin?
I’ve found that it is recommend to use a maximum of 10% paint per whatever amount of resin you have. You don’t need to measure it out. I just eyeballed it and made my color by adding a drop of paint at a time until I reached my desired color.
Do I need a heat gun?
I first tried out my resin on a little piece of would to practice the art piece I was going to make. It was about a 6×12″ piece of art. I didn’t have a heat gun but thought it went pretty well. Than for my big piece of art I got a heat gun and it was a complete game changer. Once you add your colors use your heat gun to warm the colors up and they’ll blend ssso nicely. Plus the heat gun will eliminate any bubbles rising up.
How long does resin dry?
So the resin I worked with dries to touch in about 24 hours. If you plan on shipping it somewhere I would recommend waiting at least 48-72 hours.
How do I know how much resin to mix for my artwork?
For my painting 18″x24″ I mixed a total of 3 cups. That’s 1 1/2 cups of resin and 1 1/2 cups of hardener. You combine the two liquids and stir them. The art resin I used has a website I went on that helped me calculate how much resin I need. Even though it calculated for me to do 15 oz I did about a cup more and I’m glad i did. 15 oz just didn’t seem like it would be enough.
Things to watch out for…
- Mix your resin for a total of three minutes. This is really important. If you don’t mix it good enough it will not dry and you’ll have a sticky mess.
- Make sure your art piece is level before pouring. While working on your art you won’t really notice that’s it’s slightly not level until you let it cure overnight in which case your colors can shift or run off your canvas.
- Make sure your area is prepped and lined with plastic. This project does get a bit messy.
- Your resin will having bubbles coming to the top once you’ve poured it out on your canvas. You will need some sort of heat to pop the bubbles. (heat gun, blow dryer or torch) If you use a torch move it quickly about 2-3 inches above the surface. It should not burn your canvas or resin as long as you don’t hold it in once spot for too long.
Making your own realistic looking crystals!
So I had a hard time finding realistic looking crystals. I came across some small glass rocks but they weren’t very shiny and didn’t look like crystals at all. To make my crystals I bought some glass pebbles.
I dropped some in a pan and heated them up on low-medium heat for about 17 minutes.
Than I dropped them in an ice bath and let them set for about 3-5 minutes.
Once you pull them out they should have cracked inside. This will make it easier to break them. You can always try just breaking them with a hammer and not going through the process of heating them up but I find it breaks differently creating very sharp shards that way.
Than to break them use a paper towel and add some in the center. Fold over your paper towel and use a hammer to gently break them. Keep in mind these will still be very sharp so be careful. (NOTE: This project is not kid friendly at all. CAUTION: ONCE YOUR ART IS DRY keep away from children it may be really sharp)
Step 1 – Prepping your area!
To begin you’ll need to make sure the area you’ll be working in is covered in plastic and you’ll need to prop up your canvas/wood. To prop it up you’ll need 4 plastic cups.
Flip your canvas over and tape 4 plastic cups on each corner making sure they aren’t to close to the edges since your resin will be pouring over.
Than make sure your canvas is level.
Following that draw a rough draft of what you want your painting to look like and approximately what colors you’ll need.
Than mark the colors on your plastic cups so there’s no confusion.
Step 2 – Mixing your resin!
My resin required equal parts of resin and hardener. I used two measuring cups to make sure I poured the exact amount. Than I combined them and stirred for a full three minutes. Once you’ve mixed your resin keep your eye on the clock you’ll have about 45 minutes to complete your art piece. Start adding resin to your cups leaving some clear resin for a base coat. I mixed a lot of white and pink since I knew that would take up the majority of my canvas.
I added a drop of paint at a time to the resin to get the desired color.
Step 3 – Pouring your resin!
Start off by giving your canvas a base coat. Don’t be scared to rub the resin around with your hands. Make sure you get the edges as well. You don’t need a lot of resin for this step just a tiny bit. (thin layer) Following that I divided my canvas in half and poured pink on one side and white on the other.
I also rubbed the colors in using my hands. (this is why you need lots of gloves)
Than I poured a big black line in the center.
Following that heat your whole canvas up with your heat gun to help the colors blend.
I than added some bursts just by using my ice cream stick and dripping it around.
And I used a straw to blend out the bursts.
Adding Some Metallic
Following that I added some brass that we made with the enamel paint by adding it to some resin. I used a toothpick to add little details.
Step 4 – Finishing off with Crystals
To add your crystals simply drop them down onto your artwork making sure they are all touching the resin. The resin will act as glue.
Step 5 – Adding your gold
I dripped my gold directly out of the bottle without mixing it with resin. I wanted the gold to sit on top of the resin creating depth and texture. Careful a little goes a long way with the enamel paint. Once you heat it up it’ll really spread. I did about 5-7 little drops per every 2 inches. (photo below- look how much it spread)
I used my heat gun to melt away the gold making sure to pull away from the center as it heated. (do not touch the resin with your heat gun or hold it too close. (It will burn the canvas if held too close) The heat gun gives off a little bit of air. Just enough to move the gold around. I would hold it on the gold for three seconds to heat it up and move the heat gun away from the center. (as it pulled the gold away) This created bursts of gold.
For your last step fix up your edges. While working on your art don’t worry to much about the edges. Once you get to your edges the resin will should start hardening at this point. You should be able to just rub it onto the edges. Don’t worry about leaving finger strokes on the sides. They should melt in as the resin settles or if the finger strokes are bugging you you can always heat it up a bit with the heat gun and it’ll melt right into place. That’s it!
I am in love with how this turned out! I can’t wait to work with resin again! That was sso much fun 🙂 . By the way how cute is that chair. Oh and if your wondering where I got my giant banana leaves they were at hobby lobby 50% off. ($5 a piece what a steal)
Look how shiny it stayed. Isn’t that amazing!
So we were debating on what this abstract looked like and some of my friends were saying it looks like a mountain range.. 😍 What do you think it looks like?
I love how these pinks turned out!
Just a heads up it does drip which gives your edges a bit of a drip effect. Resin is totally sandable so that’s an option if it’s bugging you.
I think my favorite part of all is this marble look on the white! 🙂
That’s it for this DIY. I hope you enjoyed it. My bedroom will look sssso fresh and modern with this resin art. We’re working on a new feature wall in our bedroom where this art piece will be hung. As soon as I have it up I’ll snap some pics and post it. 🙂
I hope you enjoyed this resin pour DIY. Have a great weekend everyone! Happy crafting!
A huge thank you once again to hobby lobby for sponsoring this tutorial 🤗!
Special thanks to my awesome hubby. Couldn’t have don this without him😊. (PS. all the cool close up scenes in the video were video taped by him! Isn’t he amazing! )